Preface

A request was made to describe the operation of the White.  While I am new to owning White steamers, I thought I would give a description of how I operate my 1909 White Model 'O'.  While different models operate differently and every owner has their own preferences, I will describe what I do.  Note that I attempt to follow the owner's manual as much as possible.  I feel that no one knew better on running a White than the factory.  Also, since my car is an un-restored original, I do take things very slowly, check everything multiple times, and hope for the best.  I have also found that if anything is going to go wrong, it is when somebody is watching me.......

None of this is to replace the owner's manual or Edmunson's manual.  This is simply what I have found works for my car.   So please take it with a grain of salt....

{I also assume that the reader has a basic understanding of the White and the various parts.}

Preparations

I find that this is where most of the work is.  If I prepare my car correctly, firing up will only be about 10 -15 minutes.  It is the preparation that takes longer.

Water.  Obviously I check to make sure my generator is full.  My car will siphon full every time I let it, but I never assume that it did.  I fill the water tank, open the lower blow down, and use the hand water pump until a steady flow comes out.  Sometimes after a few gushes of water, some air comes out, so I make sure a steady flow is seen.  I then close the lower blow down and re-fill the water tank.

Fuel.  Yes, I have run out of gas before.  I fill the main tank with regular unleaded, and the pilot tank with white gas (coleman type).  (This is for the dual tank system).  I then use an air compressor to fill the tank at the triple position valve at the engine air pump.  My hand air pump does not work...yet.  I fill the tank to 50-55psi.  If the tank is full, this happens fast.

Lubrication.  I check the crankcase for water, then check for the proper level.  I made a dipstick out of brazing rod.  I verify I have enough oil in the dash oiler.  If it has been a while, I will turn up grease cups everywhere.  Also take a hand oil can and oil the various moving parts per the owners manual.  With my old parts, lubrication is very important.

The Pilot Light

Time to get the flame going.  Verify the valve at the pilot light fuel filter is closed as well as the hand fire valve and automatic fire valve.  Verify the lower blow down is closed.  With the pilot cold, I will screw closed the pilot valve to allow the needle to clean the jet.  Keep track of how many turns so you can get it back to your original position.

At this point I do use a propane torch.  I heat the pilot with a low torch flame, and constantly move it around to not overheat one spot.  I will then put the torch in the peep hole for a few seconds.  I think I do this, in my mind, so I don't overheat the pilot itself.  Give it time for the heat to move around.

After I feel it is heated enough, I will put the torch back into the peep hole and open the valve at the fuel filter.  The pilot then lights off.  I tweak the pilot valve until I get a good healthy flame.  Most of the time the flame is blue with some yellow.  My pilot valve does not throttle the fuel well, so I think my pilot runs hotter than it should.  Anyway the pilot is lit.

Final Checklist

While the pilot is heating the vaporizer I will verify the engine is in neutral, throttle is closed, engine petcocks are open, and that all of my stuff is ready to go.  At no time do I leave the car alone with the pilot lit.  I guess I am nervous.......  Occasionally I check the steam pressure.  Once in a while, since my pilot runs hot, I notice that with all the cold water in the generator and no expansion room, my pilot can cause 200-300psi.  I simply open the blow down and let some water out.

To determine when I am ready for main fire, I will place my hand on the vaporizer outlet pipe, as it leave the generator housing.  When it is warm to the touch, I feel I am ready.

Main Fire

Next comes the fun part.  Slowly I open the hand fire valve until some gas starts flowing.  I then shut it off and let the raw fuel heat up in the vaporizer.  I will do this several times until all of the raw gas is coming out as an air gas, not liquid.  Always watch that steam pressure.  It can creep up fast.  If it does, just open the blow down, let some water out, then close again.  I like to keep as much water in my generator as I can, I feel this helps not going into overheat when you first start out.

After the fuel has been turned into air gas, I will open the hand fire valve until the vaporizer gage is reading around 20psi, I usually do not go higher.  When I have 300psi steam, I open the blow down until a good flow of steam is pouring out.  Then I close the blow down.  When I am back to about 300-400psi, I close the hand fire valve and get into the car.

Start The Engine

Another step not to rush.  I need to get all the water out of the engine and get it warm.  Hence the petcocks are open.  I put the engine in forward, simple the engine with the pedal and slowly open the throttle until I start to see the fan move.  Close throttle.  Then I reverse the engine and repeat the process.  As more steam is rushes out of the petcocks, I try to get the engine to turn all the way over and idle.  As soon as it idles, I close the petcocks and hand pump in a few strokes of oil.  By now I could be as low as 100psi and will need some more fire.  If the engine is turning over, I will open the automatic fire valve and let the flowmotor do it's job.  If not, I use the hand fire valve to get back to 400psi or so.

Enjoy The Drive

At this point in time, my car runs very good.  No firebacks, temperature stays between 700F and 850F, 10-12 miles per gallon of water, worse on that for gas, and I have had a full load of people on a 7%+ grade and never had to use the emergency low gear (my temperature usually does not drop on hills).  Of course on the steep hills I can only maintain 10-15mph, but on the flats I run a steady 35-40mph.... Faster when I look behind myself and see my father's 1909 White 'M' 40hp ready to pass me like I am standing still.

Now I have that in writing....my White probably won't run worth a darn on the next tour...

The End Game

First thing, shut off all fuel valves except the the pilot valve.  That fine tip can break off as things are cooling down.

After a good run, time to put her away.  I blow down using the lower blow down until pressure is barley registered, then I close the valve.  About every 5th time I use the upper 'water' blow down as suggested by the owner's manual.  It really does blow out a lot of junk.  If I close all the blow down valves with pressure barley registering, and things are still very warm (400F), my generator will siphon full.  I can go out two hours later and hear the checks chatter with the water being sucked by the vacuum generated by the cooling generator.  Make sure the water tank is full.  When I fire up the next time, I see the level has gone down due to the generator being siphoned full.

After things are really cold, I will empty the water tank of the oil.  What a mess and I will save that for a later time.....

By this time I can sleep soundly.......Unless I hear Stanley guys out in the parking lot pounding on their loose copper boiler tubes......Go back and read the White Owners' Fourteen Commandments!